What ecu are you going to run? PFC?Quote:
Originally Posted by git
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What ecu are you going to run? PFC?Quote:
Originally Posted by git
dont know about cars being run in, but i know with race bikes your better off driving them they way your going to and maybe a little be harded too, they usually end up just as reliable and with more power from standard, i dont know how it works but it does.
but id deffo give robbie a shout and see what way he'd do it, and what way he'd want it done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by git
I was trying to put milage up on mine before sending it to them but to many cops around so just told robbie i could not get the milage up and he nearly killed me saying how i was not ment to put milage up because it was not fueling right not mapped
just load her on the trailer and let robbie work it from there
NO low load, what gem said is the same i'd do, if I read him correctlyQuote:
Originally Posted by git
as in dont allow the engine to struggle at all, but dont over rev either...
I definitely would not run it in hard!!!
Yea, thats it. almost WOT at low revs, under 3k or so. short shift through the gears to keep yourself going up and downQuote:
Originally Posted by git
if its a totally new set up then wait till you have a map for the car.
Looks like you have a dilema on your hands Chris, best bet would be to let TDP look after it as im sure they have dealt with this a million times, have my own yoke booked in with them in 2 weeks :eek:, keep us up to scratch on how ye get on would like to have a chat with ye maybe when she's done..............
Dont use mineral oil, modern cars oil seals will be damaged by itQuote:
Originally Posted by colm
No thats wrong, everything has to bed in piston rings etc, this leads to metal fragments in the oil and if ignored will damage oil fed components and the engine itselfQuote:
Originally Posted by Robbie Daly Ps13
Sum tuners say dont pussy about running the engine in, if its built right it wont shit itself :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob32
Its not about it shitting itself, dependand on whats been replaced during the bedding in process small metal fragments will get into the oil, the reason for this is because even though invisible to the naked eye big ends etc and even honed blocks will have miniscule lines on them, all these parts have to bed into each other in the same way brake pads and discs do, so as they last and operate properly, the isuue is at high rpms the rotational parts are spinning so fast you risk damaging them, although generally in the short term this isnt a problem, but why not rub the car in correctly and get that bit longer out of the engine?? Ill bet when you get new brake pads you dont try emergency braking immediatly, its much the same principal, plus you need to change the oil as this will remove those metal fragments from the engine which is necessairy as they can score big ends and eventually lead to a spun bearing for exampleQuote:
Originally Posted by Stevo
never knew that. Heard the opposite, older engines and new synthetic oils not getting along.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob32
if it does cause damage i cant seeing it doing much in the 20-30mins it would be in there before dumping it.