Few problem I'm having after my engine swap sr20det

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by subzero

how do you bleed it fully? have the car running up to temp with the rad cap off ?? and top up i fneeded. im having the same prob and reckon it all started when i changed all the coolant.

---

On some cars there is a bleed valve but mostly its just a case of filling up the rad, leave the rad cap off and rev the car. Turn the heating on full and to the hottest setting, this will bring water up through your heater matrix where the air bubbles probably are. some of the air bubbles will come out but not all so top up the rad and put the rad cap on and take it for a quick spin going up through the revs and the gears.Do this while having the heating on full. Park up mthe car then turn it off then and take off the rad cap. Do this very slowly and carefully because if the rad is full there could be pressure and scalding water could spray on your face!!! Good idea is to put an old t-shirt or something over it while your opening it. If there was air in the system this shouldnt happen and you will just have to top up the rad!!
Hope this helps!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by topdog

On some cars there is a bleed valve but mostly its just a case of filling up the rad, leave the rad cap off and rev the car. Turn the heating on full and to the hottest setting, this will bring water up through your heater matrix where the air bubbles probably are. some of the air bubbles will come out but not all so top up the rad and put the rad cap on and take it for a quick spin going up through the revs and the gears.Do this while having the heating on full. Park up mthe car then turn it off then and take off the rad cap. Do this very slowly and carefully because if the rad is full there could be pressure and scalding water could spray on your face!!! Good idea is to put an old t-shirt or something over it while your opening it. If there was air in the system this shouldnt happen and you will just have to top up the rad!!
Hope this helps!

---

sound for that ... very helpfull ... i had no heaters on when i bled it . must give that a go . tiz an sr20 as well.

let us know kieth if ya get it sorted .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by subzero

how do you bleed it fully? have the car running up to temp with the rad cap off ?? and top up i fneeded. im having the same prob and reckon it all started when i changed all the coolant.

---

On the SR's theres a 10mm bolt for bleeding

Lad check out gems post in this thread regarding bleeding the air,works perfect
http://www.driftireland.com/showthread.php?t=10116

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by copeyhagen

after i got my pfc mapped in my chaser the car was hunting sometimes when idle.

it only seemed to happen when the ac was turned on.

is that power fc mapped?

---

You or your mapper never set up your powerfc when first installed there is a procedure to go through

My power fc is mapped it's never been like this before like. Ok so my head is getting bloody melted now. I blead the rad this morning again what I done was top it up to the brim car on, Rad cap off,heating full blast opened the bleeder screw also revved it to 2000rpm could few bubble s cam out tried this twice but doesn't seemed to have worked my heating is barely warm when I have it up full.

I put a nismo thermostat in it too I'm wondering if its not opening or something the lower rad pipe doesnt be hot either well not compared to the top one? Or maybe there just still air in it

Idiling

As for the idle problems I re wired the maf and cleaned the element with some acetone I don't think it's the maf cause I only ran it in one my mates cars and was fine.

I went through all the vacuum lines no sign of leaks the boost gauge was plumbed into the fpr so I got rid of that an plumbed the fpr straight into the trottle body this has now made it idle between 1200-1500

Could the problem with the rad be causing the bad idle ?

If anyone has any suggestions of others causes be good

Found this link for bleeding the rad in sr20s.
More detailed than mine try it hope it helps.
http://www.driftireland.com/showthre...light=bleeding

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by topdog

Found this link for bleeding the rad in sr20s.
More detailed than mine try it hope it helps.
http://www.driftireland.com/showthre...light=bleeding

---

deadly info on all these threads, thanks .

Ok taut my thermostat wasn't opening took it out and threw it in some boiling water opened fine there was a bit of sealant on it but dought it was stopping it opening .

Then I removed the water pump I taut the blades were worn down by the look of them compared to other water pumps but turned out there fine

So I just refilled the coolant and bleed it the way gem said in the link done the job only took few minutes too it's now idling good thank god.

But now I've another bloody problem :mad: the heating is staying cold it won't heat up before people start goin on bout head gaskets, it was working fine before I took the engine out of the old shell anyone any ideas Wat it could be causing this maybe something disconnected? I had quick look but I couldnt see anything I didn't strip the new shell so maybe my mate disconnected something?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by k1984w

But now I've another bloody problem :mad: the heating is staying cold it won't heat up before people start goin on bout head gaskets, it was working fine before I took the engine out of the old shell anyone any ideas Wat it could be causing this maybe something disconnected? I had quick look but I couldnt see anything I didn't strip the new shell so maybe my mate disconnected something?

---

Common problem on most nissans, on drivers side look under the dash beside where the foot rest is you will see an actuator that controls the hot/cold valve of the heating they tend to stick some times pack in all togeter,
If you cant get it to move disconnect the plastic latch, push it either back or forwards and you can latch it in a "back up" position.........and you have hot air..........