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View Full Version : Spraying my S14 from Home - HELP!!!



kevy-s13
20-01-11, 20:14
So, Ive a marlin blue s14 and its in fairly sweet condition with few dents if any. Thing is, i really want to respray it myself as spraying is something ive been into and so i'd like to take the time to work on it myself and do a good job on it.

Im not worried about respraying the inside of the car the same as the outside so would just really want the inside door sills to match when the door is opened. lol

CAN ANYONE WHO KNOWS WHAT THEYRE ON ABOUT be able to give me a fair idea on what to do with prep/paint from start to finish? I was thinking of masking up the engine bay and removing the front and rear bumpers etc and spraying them separately to the car but really havent a notion if this is what i should be doing? lol
Ive also got limited knowledge of what materials i'll need so if yas can help me with this also....

I have a cleaned garage where i will wet the floor and use a compressor but any tips you can give me would be greatly appreciated as this will be a tramp/budget spec build but want it looking a million dollars! lol

Was thinking of going gloss black as im not sure if metallic black is any harder to spray but would be open to any colour ideas and suggestions. Im also going to be fitting +25mm (or maybe +40mm front fenders) and +50mm rear overfenders but im pretty aware of what fitting them involves with cutting the rear arches and rivetting etc.


i'll be sure to do a photographed build of my work so yas can see how i get on if you're interested.

Once again, any help will be most appreciated so thanks in advance.

dR Dan
20-01-11, 20:37
Well lad...
If your going repairing those dents u'l need to sand down the damaged area and just around it with p80 grit sandpaper.
Then apply the filler evenly, Mixing filler is basically a golf ball of filler to a pea of hardener.
Sand this with 80 grit and repeat the filler process until u'v a desired finish.
Before primer rub it down again with p180 and then p240 as this will remove any deep scratches.
Rub down around the filler area aswell with p240.
Mask around the primed areas but not too close to the filler as priming onto the masking tape will leave an edge which is a cunt to rub down after.
Once filler has dried get a bucket of water and p800 wet and dry sandpaper and start rubbin the filler until its smooth, U shuldnt be able to feel where the primer ends and old paint starts, If u have a sanding block use it as itl remove remove waves if used right.
Uv a few options then for rubbing down the rest of the car id just get a tub of blend prep and a good lenght of Grey scotch pad and again ur bucket of water... And just basically rub the shit outta the whole car until all shiny surfaces are matt.
Remove bumpers and skirts etc.
Mask up what u need to mask on the car and paint on.
For paint id recommend going clear over base.
Basically get your colour base (gloss black) ans ul need to put on prob 3- 4 coats.... Leaving time between each coat to dry fully.
Get a regulator for the end of ur gun and ul b sprayin at a tad over 2 bar pressure.
Next ul need about 3 coats of laquor, raise ur pressure a tad and read the instructions on ur laquor tin ( most have different methods for painting)
Id recommend Max Meyer where ud apply 2 40 per cent coats leavin about 10 mins between coats and then an 80 per cent coat to get ur desired finish.

I could go on and on but im boring myself any more particular questions just ask and il try help.

Every panel basher has different methods and these are just mine.

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 20:49
cheers for the advice man. few more questions if thats okay:

> when rubbing down, can i use a buffing wheel with some sort of emry paper on it to save me time instead of rubbing down by hand or is it better to just go by hand?

> before painting, once the car is fully rubbed down, do i need to prime the whole car before adding my first paint coat or is it okay to just paint over the car as long as it's been rubbed down all over?

> do i need to emry between any paint coats or anything??

thanks again

dR Dan
20-01-11, 21:01
cheers for the advice man. few more questions if thats okay:

> when rubbing down, can i use a buffing wheel with some sort of emry paper on it to save me time instead of rubbing down by hand or is it better to just go by hand?

> before painting, once the car is fully rubbed down, do i need to prime the whole car before adding my first paint coat or is it okay to just paint over the car as long as it's been rubbed down all over?

> do i need to emry between any paint coats or anything??

thanks again

Ya u can rub it down with a sander no problem... 800 r even 1000 grit but jst be just go easy on the edges cas itl burn through to metal very easily and its not a great idea to paint onto metal...

No u dont need to pime the whole car, if the panels are straight and theres no othe ramage paint on over the old paint...

No u dnt... If u get bits of dirt in the base coat leave it fully dry and give it a light rub of 600 r 800 dry and paint on over again...

If theres dirt in the laquor it can be flatted out after when fully dry with 2000 grit paper and polished back up to a good shine after.

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 21:11
brilliant mate....thanks

oh actually....with regards to actually painting the car when its sitting there primed and prepped....what tips would you give me on spraying? like....start at the roof and work downwards around the windscreens with the doors off to do a base coat all over and on the inside door sills etc?

then would i leave it to dry, then fit the doors and bumpers, bodykit etc and do an all over spray for the final few coats?

Just dont know whether to spray the doors and bumpers completely separately then fit them all once the final spray is complete - will all the panels match if i do this?

Any tips on hardener???

doyler
20-01-11, 21:12
be handy if sum1 set up a bif of crash course for resprayin cars

twin-cam85
20-01-11, 21:15
spray all the doors and kit on there own and then fit to the car

dR Dan
20-01-11, 21:18
brilliant mate....thanks

oh actually....with regards to actually painting the car when its sitting there primed and prepped....what tips would you give me on spraying? like....start at the roof and work downwards around the windscreens with the doors off to do a base coat all over and on the inside door sills etc?

then would i leave it to dry, then fit the doors and bumpers, bodykit etc and do an all over spray for the final few coats?

Just dont know whether to spray the doors and bumpers completely separately then fit them all once the final spray is complete - will all the panels match if i do this?

Any tips on hardener???

Well if u want to paint in around the door id paint this first... As in rub it down, open the door and just paint it.

This can be done before the whole outside of the car is prepped.

Once its dry u jst close the door and rub down down whole car as said above and the off spray that lands on the quarter, sill etc. will be rubbed down smooth while your doing the whole car.

Id paint all the Kit off the car, Once its the same pot of paint and you apply the same ammount of coats it will be perfect.

Whatever laquor you get will have a hardener with it and it'l tell u the maixing ratio and whether it needs thinners.

dR Dan
20-01-11, 21:23
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0r9WPw-Ov8

Heres a handy link for doing the jams... You can see offspray etc is landing on the quarters, wings etc but before you paint the rest of the car you'l be rubbing down this offspray.

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 21:24
Well if u want to paint in around the door id paint this first... As in rub it down, open the door and just paint it.

This can be done before the whole outside of the car is prepped.

Once its dry u jst close the door and rub down down whole car as said above and the off spray that lands on the quarter, sill etc. will be rubbed down smooth while your doing the whole car.

Id paint all the Kit off the car, Once its the same pot of paint and you apply the same ammount of coats it will be perfect.

Whatever laquor you get will have a hardener with it and it'l tell u the maixing ratio and whether it needs thinners.

AHHH BRILLIANT! thats the plan then! think i know everything now that should need doing!
I will get started as soon as i can afford materials! lol

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 21:25
ACTUALLY! errr......what sort of gun is best if im going to buy one that aint massively expensive?

Whats the minimum sized compressor that should be used for the job???

And FINALLY.....whether normal gloss black or metallic colours, is the paint proceedure the same and provided it's from the same pot of paint mix...will it work out fine???

thanks

dR Dan
20-01-11, 21:32
ACTUALLY! errr......what sort of gun is best if im going to buy one that aint massively expensive?

Whats the minimum sized compressor that should be used for the job???

thanks

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DeVILBISS-802342-StartingLine-2-Spray-Gun-Paint-Kit-/230333463949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a0f1bd8d#ht_3586wt_1179

Ideal little kit... Base gun and laquor gun... U culd prime usin the laquor gun but give it a good clean after priming...

Am not sure on size, im stupid with compressors but twould need to be big enuf... basically needs to stay at 2 bar or your wastin ur time...

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 21:35
ok mate, thanks a bunch. i will get my car back and get started on it! photos being taken all the way of course so keep an eye out!

would you recommend removing the windows and door handles etc or just mask over the windows and rub down and spray the handles as normal?

dR Dan
20-01-11, 21:43
ok mate, thanks a bunch. i will get my car back and get started on it! photos being taken all the way of course so keep an eye out!

would you recommend removing the windows and door handles etc or just mask over the windows and rub down and spray the handles as normal?

Ya lad mask away.... You can take it off like but if your half tidy about the masking twould be perfect...

Just take ur time with it.... Once uv it based u must apply laquor within 12 hours...

Otherwise ul have to rub down again...

Also make sur uv plenty heat and put down plenty of water...

Leave on the heater for base but turn it off for laquoring...

Sum form of fan would be ideal cas once u start laquoring visibility is terrible unless the offsprays being extracted...

Oh.... and take ur time and go easy with the laquor, remember if its a little orange peely u can flat it and polish it to bring up a clear finish...

And for the base 2 light coats first, remember your building up the colous as opposed to just bateing it on..

Its ALOT easier to flat a bit of orange peal then flatting a huge run :D

keith_b
20-01-11, 21:50
Sorry for the spam but when your thinning paint for spraying is there a set amount. Are they all nearly water based now so how much water would you add to a pot of paint. Can the paint be to thinned out? Again sorry for the hike.

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 21:50
Ya lad mask away.... You can take it off like but if your half tidy about the masking twould be perfect...

Just take ur time with it.... Once uv it based u must apply laquor within 12 hours...

Otherwise ul have to rub down again...

Also make sur uv plenty heat and put down plenty of water...

Leave on the heater for base but turn it off for laquoring...

Sum form of fan would be ideal cas once u start laquoring visibility is terrible unless the offsprays being extracted...

Oh.... and take ur time and go easy with the laquor, remember if its a little orange peely u can flat it and polish it to bring up a clear finish...

And for the base 2 light coats first, remember your building up the colous as opposed to just bateing it on..

Its ALOT easier to flat a bit of orange peal then flatting a huge run :D


Okay sweet. Il start on it in february hopefully. Dont care if it takes me a month to do it....as long as i get a good quality finish.

All of the above is noted and will be revised many many times before even starting. lol
Lacquering is going to be the scary bit to be honest. Should be grand tho.

Once base coat is done, lacquer within twelve hours - duely noted! :D

be expecting many more questions before and throughout the project lad....lol
thanks for your help to date tho!

dR Dan
20-01-11, 21:54
Sorry for the spam but when your thinning paint for spraying is there a set amount. Are they all nearly water based now so how much water would you add to a pot of paint. Can the paint be to thinned out? Again sorry for the hike.

u dnt thin it with water u get a special thinning agent... Normally about 10-15 per cent of it.

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 21:56
PdDan - is the painting procedure the same regardless of whether the paint is metallic or not???

dR Dan
20-01-11, 21:59
PdDan - is the painting procedure the same regardless of whether the paint is metallic or not???

Pretty much except after uv it based u turn up the pressure of the gun a tad, hold it back a small bit further away and do a light quick flick over the whole car... It just brings out the metallicyness lol otherwise known as a drop coat.

keith_b
20-01-11, 21:59
u dnt thin it with water u get a special thinning agent... Normally about 10-15 per cent of it.

Could be why my bumper came out a lighter colour then :D. I just thought when water based use water and guy in the auto factors never said anything.

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 22:00
Pretty much except after uv it based u turn up the pressure of the gun a tad, hold it back a small bit further away and do a light quick flick over the whole car... It just brings out the metallicyness lol otherwise known as a drop coat.


Ok, so when you say 'based' you mean once you have applied all of the paint coats before the lacquer???

dR Dan
20-01-11, 22:03
Ok, so when you say 'based' you mean once you have applied all of the paint coats before the lacquer???

Yup... U do your 3 r 4 coats, basically however many it takes to cover all the old paint/ primer completely....

Then do the drop coat....

Clear over base.. Meaning Base as in the actual colour with a clear coat (Laquor ) over it...

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 22:08
i think i am now a theoretical pro! haha

i've a good feeling this will go well! yeehaa

dR Dan
20-01-11, 22:13
i think i am now a theoretical pro! haha

i've a good feeling this will go well! yeehaa

Oooh... And dont het too cocky :D Lolz...

Not quiet as easy as it sounds... :) If it was id have no job :rolleyes:

Look thru youtube for vids of actualli painting techniques... Speed of hand movement, wrist action etc.

joey banana s14
20-01-11, 22:16
im a bit late to add to this pd dan hit the nail on the head follow those steps and practice on old panels 1st and your on to a winner

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 22:22
yeh guys. suppose that aint a bad idea. ive a spare s14 shell laying there that i dont mind f**kin up and an oul micra there that runs out of mot!

cockiness will not get the better of me i promise! :D

dR Dan
20-01-11, 22:32
im a bit late to add to this pd dan hit the nail on the head follow those steps and practice on old panels 1st and your on to a winner

Oooh... Very gud point practise away mad first....

dR Dan
20-01-11, 22:37
Could be why my bumper came out a lighter colour then :D. I just thought when water based use water and guy in the auto factors never said anything.

Im actualli not sure whether or nto u can use water but i doubt it... Open to correction doe...

dR Dan
20-01-11, 22:39
Oh and make sure to panel wipe it before u base it so as not to get reactions and get a tack rag... After you'v the car based u can give it a quick light rub of the tak rag before laquoring to remove any little biteens of dirt sitting on the base...

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 22:41
Oh and make sure to panel wipe it before u base it so as not to get reactions and get a tack rag... After you'v the car based u can give it a quick light rub of the tak rag before laquoring to remove any little biteens of dirt sitting on the base...

by this....do you mean alcohol wipes or a lint free cloth or something?

i was planning on just hitting the rubbed down shell all over with the compressor air then alcohol wiping it.

is this the wrong idea or what?

joey banana s14
20-01-11, 22:43
Oh and make sure to panel wipe it before u base it so as not to get reactions and get a tack rag... After you'v the car based u can give it a quick light rub of the tak rag before laquoring to remove any little biteens of dirt sitting on the base...

deffo wash the be jaysus outa it with panelwipe especailly if its not in a booth and keep any polishes ,oil ,wd40 etc as far away as possible itl cause silacone reaction like fish eyes and they wont buff out if deep

dR Dan
20-01-11, 22:47
by this....do you mean alcohol wipes or a lint free cloth or something?

i was planning on just hitting the rubbed down shell all over with the compressor air then alcohol wiping it.

is this the wrong idea or what?

Any motor factors will have uni degreaser or panel wipe its a wipe on wipe of liquid.... A tak rag is a cloth dats ever so slightly sticky and it just picks up small fibers etc after panel wipeing it.

dR Dan
20-01-11, 22:48
deffo wash the be jaysus outa it with panelwipe especailly if its not in a booth and keep any polishes ,oil ,wd40 etc as far away as possible itl cause silacone reaction like fish eyes and they wont buff out if deep

Lol the dreaded 'Silage cones' :D

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 22:48
nice one for both of your help guys. this entire thread has been copied and saved! lol

joey banana s14
20-01-11, 22:53
Lol the dreaded 'Silage cones' :D

silacanos a pain only painters understand:D:D

no probs man as we said follow dans steps and practice and soon you could be chip fooses right hand man;)

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 22:56
silacanos a pain only painters understand:D:D

no probs man as we said follow dans steps and practice and soon you could be chip fooses right hand man;)

haha....chip foose wont have shit on me! after the first successful job, il be handing out new flyers for a cheap car body repair man that i know! :P :p:D:eek::cool:

dR Dan
20-01-11, 23:03
I prob gonna kepp poppin up here shouting random things lol...

Make sure to drain ur compressor and a water trap would be the job... Water in the lines will wreck ur paint job... even if the base coat is bone dry a drop of water on it and itl wreck it...

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 23:08
I prob gonna kepp poppin up here shouting random things lol...

Make sure to drain ur compressor and a water trap would be the job... Water in the lines will wreck ur paint job... even if the base coat is bone dry a drop of water on it and itl wreck it...

ok....drain my compressor of water using a water trap? is a water trap just a thing that goes in before the gun so that it collects any water in the lines or something?

dR Dan
20-01-11, 23:10
ok....drain my compressor of water using a water trap? is a water trap just a thing that goes in before the gun so that it collects any water in the lines or something?

Yuuup yup... just drain the compressor lik u normally would and the water trap goes on before the actual air line...

joey banana s14
20-01-11, 23:11
ok....drain my compressor of water using a water trap? is a water trap just a thing that goes in before the gun so that it collects any water in the lines or something?

thats exactly it but if you dont have one make sure water doesnt come down the airline if drops land on base or lacker fucks it up

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 23:13
Sweet az boize!

dR Dan
20-01-11, 23:14
Iv just decided im going charging for any further tips :)

50 cent a tip! :p

Mick K
20-01-11, 23:16
Will you 2 get a room :p

dR Dan
20-01-11, 23:17
Will you 2 get a room :p

Only if you show us to it ;)

Mick K
20-01-11, 23:36
Im in the wardrobe with a sock on;) And its not on my feet either :)

twailbait
20-01-11, 23:46
Im in the wardrobe with a sock on;) And its not on my feet either :)

But you want be able to see if you've a sock on your head??
:D

kevy-s13
20-01-11, 23:59
RRRIIIIIIIIIGHHTT LADDSSSSS.......chill out on the gayness!