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Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
19-11-10, 23:53
Well lads/lassies,

Team Kanjiuma in association with Calicages Racing/mod doctor have decided to share our build of the 2011 Nissan Silvia S15 drift car. This build will show the lesser experienced people on the site how to build a pro car to the highest standards within our budget for 2011. We welcome your questions / queries and for the more experienced guys we welcome your comments or possible improvements you could suggest to the build.

Update 1.......19/11/10.

Below is a 2001 Silvia which competed in the 2009 Prodrift season, it was driven by myself and is in need of a re-fresh.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110071.jpg

Ok so Day 1 we rolled in S15 on the very handy costume made Dolly frame. If you have small garages with a few lads working out of same this is a handy tool. We can move car shells in and out of garage within ten minutes.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110072.jpg

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110073.jpg

Above is the S15 stripped of its dash/engine etc, as you can see the standard loom is very bulky and 70% of it is not even required to run drift car. We will be reducing the loom to the bare essentials; the advantages of this are weight reduction and less of a chance of car going on fire due to excessive unnecessary wires.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110082.jpg

When removing loom we label every plug to the best of our ability to simplify the striping down of the loom at a later stage. I know nothing about wiring so I am lucky that Stiv (Mod Doctor) and Nelly are experts.

As you can appreciate this project build will be slow as we all work during the day but the Prodrift dead line 2011 has to be achieved.

P.S. Yes I know there is another thread started by Mark about this build be he seams to have lost interest in the S15 up dates…fecker is only up dating his own one…so that’s why I started fresh.

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
20-11-10, 20:36
Update 2.....20/11/10

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110074.jpg

Unfortunately the back of the S15 was damaged; this obviously wouldn’t be the most ideal shell in the world be we all have budgets to abide by. Nelly got to works see below.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110086.jpg


I suggested a localised repair in the damaged area but Nelly was insistent of a full panel replacement. This involved drilling out of all the spot welds and removal of side and back window.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110077.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110080.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110082.jpg

Doofer
20-11-10, 21:11
This is gona be a brilliant thread.... especially for people like me who know f**k all but want to know more about the work that needs to be done to get a car to top standard..... best of luck with it.. Il stay tuned in anyway

Daraghs14a
20-11-10, 21:18
Looks good Don.

jdmjimmy
20-11-10, 23:11
good to see more s15's been used we need to get some baller status goin with the s15's

docco86
20-11-10, 23:44
As jimmy said good to see more s15s been used in the drift scene.. Best of luck wit the build.

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
22-11-10, 18:08
Update 3.......22/11/10.

Yesterday we commenced work on a new idea (well it’s probably an old idea but new to us anyway). Over the past few years I seamed to be having problems with cracking of manifolds, this arose from three major problems, drift car having larger exhaust and it being lowered down to the ground hence exhausts banging of the ground and these shocks causing cracks in manifold. The third reason is that I didn’t have a flexi exhaust section fitted after the turbo exhaust pipe to absorber any shocks that may come up from the latter part of the exhaust hitting the ground.
As seen below where the flame is, Nissan have allowed room in the passenger foot well for the standard silencer box, we have decided to extend this all the way to the front of the car,the second picture shows the sloping of the tunnel up upwards this allows smoother bends for the down pipe. This also keeps the leading elbow on the bottom part of the exhaust up off the road saving the manifold.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110087.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110088.jpg

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
22-11-10, 18:15
This is gona be a brilliant thread.... especially for people like me who know f**k all but want to know more about the work that needs to be done to get a car to top standard..... best of luck with it.. Il stay tuned in anyway

I agree Cheers lad


As jimmy said good to see more s15s been used in the drift scene.. Best of luck wit the build.

Cheers lad...I hope luck is on my side next year.

S14a johno
22-11-10, 18:16
nice work don :D:D

looking good, say it be ROASTING in the car now :D
ya mite well put a huge air event on the roof :D
tell nelly to hurry up :P:P

podge waants his 180 going;P

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
22-11-10, 18:16
Looks good Don.

Cheers Daragh.

yowdy
22-11-10, 18:17
gona be a monster lad,,

Aidan Hogan
22-11-10, 18:26
Don't blow another box at the top of the track in Portlaoise again please :p
This is gonna be a really cool thread/car :D
Looking forward to the end result :cool:

ali-d1936
22-11-10, 18:28
looking good sofar :D

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
23-11-10, 14:00
nice work don :D:D

looking good, say it be ROASTING in the car now :D
ya mite well put a huge air event on the roof :D
tell nelly to hurry up :P:P

podge waants his 180 going;P

Ha Ha, rosting for sure...if Nelly gave up the fags she would be long finished.





gona be a monster lad,,

“Monster” yes hopefully....but even more needs to be reliable this year.

yowdy
23-11-10, 16:44
pm me ur number lad wana ask ya bout few tngs;)

mark
23-11-10, 23:15
Ha Ha, rosting for sure...if Nelly gave up the fags she would be long finished.

nelly ar what he does best.ha:D
http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr169/smilers15/004-1.jpg

joey banana s14
23-11-10, 23:24
does nelly ever not have a fag hangin on the lip haha some man gointa be some machine looking forward to it

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
24-11-10, 15:57
Don't blow another box at the top of the track in Portlaoise again please :p
This is gonna be a really cool thread/car :D
Looking forward to the end result :cool:

That shouldnt happen again....5 speed dog box next year (good for 600bhp so they say). I will fill you in later about it...



looking good sofar :D

cheers lad.

Aidan Hogan
24-11-10, 17:10
That shouldnt happen again....5 speed dog box next year (good for 600bhp so they say). I will fill you in later about it...

Thank god ha heavy aul cars :eek:
Looking forward to it smoking Portlaoise out of it again :cool:

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
26-11-10, 02:47
Update 4.......26/11/10.


As most of us are aware drift cars need larger tubs for our big 17” + 18” wheels to turn full standard lock and in some cases beyond that. To allow this to occur we need to enlarge our tubs. This can be done a number of different ways, using a sledge/hammer to move back panels that are catching the wheels or reshaping tubs using new steel as seen below. The latter option is probably better but we all have budgets, we started by cutting out standard tubes and installing modified ones. Note that we didn’t go mad cutting shock turrets as it’s advisable to leave as much in place until modified bits are in place.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110081.jpg


See below the triangular piece on the flat in blue, that’s to leave room for intercooler pipes. It takes great patience to mark out metal but its all worth while when completed.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110092.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110090.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/121110094.jpg


Some people reckon That this modification may weaken the car, I agree but sacrifices have to be made and some risks have to be taken


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/61110003.jpg

Small bit more welding and infilling to be done but this will do for now.

Kav gts-t
26-11-10, 09:18
Love these sort of build threads :)

But am I seeing properly, gas welding?? Would have thought with this much effort going into it MIG would have been the obvious choice

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
27-11-10, 18:34
Love these sort of build threads :)

But am I seeing properly, gas welding?? Would have thought with this much effort going into it MIG would have been the obvious choice

Yes that’s gas welding, MIG welder is on loan at the minute so the gas welding will have to suffice. Saying that tho the gas welding is working out pretty well as its great for filling any gaps which have been created by minor errors in fabrication of panels. The gas welding does create a lot of heat and warping of lighter sheets car occur. It’s also working out a lot faster than MIG as MIG is prone to burning holes. Will definitely have MIG for seam welding shell.

Point to note: None of us are full time welders.....

Robbie Daly Ps13
27-11-10, 18:44
Good work lads be good to see the outcome of this...! Not trying to tell yas what to do or nething but would you consider bringing the cage trough the bulkhead onto the back of rhe original tubs...!


I did this on my own as i was advised to do it by a few top lads...! Supposed to be a great job...!

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
29-11-10, 10:18
Good work lads be good to see the outcome of this...! Not trying to tell yas what to do or nething but would you consider bringing the cage trough the bulkhead onto the back of rhe original tubs...!


I did this on my own as i was advised to do it by a few top lads...! Supposed to be a great job...!


Yes that’s defo the way to go for sure, we were discussing this only a few days ago....will defo give extra strength to the front end of car.

We will just have to see how we are getting on with time..cheers for that tho.

..

calicagesracing
29-11-10, 22:42
Love these sort of build threads :)

But am I seeing properly, gas welding?? Would have thought with this much effort going into it MIG would have been the obvious choice

Ya as don said it's gas welding all the way at the moment. I find it much easier and a lot quicker to weld with the gas but that's what I'm used to I suppose.
Again the only drawback with the gas is with the amount of heat it puts into the metal it can warp it like crazy:mad:

And enough with the pic's of me smoking! I only get a 5 minute break all night lol:D

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
01-12-10, 10:22
Update 5.......01/12/10.

We allowed two openings into the cock pit to suit the SR20 gearbox and the shorter RB25 box; the S15 will be fitted with a PPG 5speed dog engagement gear set (straight cut gears) in a standard SR20 gear box casing. If anything happens to the dog box we can revert back to the reliable RB25 box.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fA94Sxiu4c

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUQiLTWaZwA&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qekD_PqA02M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_1jO64tuQA


Few links for anyone who is interested in knowing about PPG gear boxes.



http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/61110013.jpg

I hope the holes are in the right place.

..

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
03-12-10, 15:13
Update 6.......03/12/10.

Unfortunately the SR20 gear box is unreliable when the power is turned up on the SR 20 engine so a lot of us install the RB25 gear box. This box is larger than SR one and its advisable to enlarge silvia tunnel to suit. We decided on increasing it by a considerable amount, this allows adequate working space for installation of RB box.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/61110007.jpg

Above roughly shows how the pieces go together.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/01122010819.jpg

Looking a bit off square but its just the way the photo was taken. Its quite difficult to match a flat piece of steel onto an oddly shaped bulk head but when painted all will be looking good.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/21112010813.jpg

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/61110012-1.jpg

Not bad for a partimer.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/01122010820.jpg

Few small pieces to tidy up.

Aidan Hogan
03-12-10, 16:03
Nice work don and co.

nick180sx
03-12-10, 18:39
ya may shortly employ nelly full time horse,never mind em been a partimer....sweet work as always doh

danmoorhead
03-12-10, 18:59
jes nelly is well handy wit da gas welding!!! really turning out sweet!!

Mick K
03-12-10, 19:03
Jeez Nelly's handy!

Stevo
03-12-10, 19:06
Good job lads!

joey banana s14
04-12-10, 00:31
ahh nelly always a dab hand with a welder i seen cages he welded with an arc welder and there serious job woulnt do better with a mig hes more talented than he gets credit for

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
06-12-10, 17:54
Cheers Lads for your comments, yes it’s a proven point that Nelly is a competent welder and has been for many years, I guess its good to get it out there.:)

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
09-12-10, 13:39
Update 7.......09/12/10.

Team Discussions about re positioning SR20 closer to the centre of the car.


We discussed moving the SR 20 engine closer to the centre of the S15 for better weight distribution. It’s always advisable to position the engine/gearbox (heaviest components) nearer to the centre of the vehicle if possible. This will reduce the vehicle's moment of inertia and makes it easier and faster to turn the vehicle to a new direction. Mounting the engine in towards the middle instead of the front of the vehicle puts more weight over the rear tires so they have more traction and provide more assistance to the front tires in braking the vehicle. As a result, vehicle stability, traction is naturally improved when turning, braking, and accelerating.

To achieve this we would have had to dry sump engine, new engine mounts etc. At this late stage we decided to cancel this idea as it obviously involves a lot of work.

Instead to balance the weight distribution a bit better over the S15 we decided to position the driver further back than normal. This would involve a few minor modifications....installation of paddle box and extension of gear stick/steering wheel.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/05122010821.jpg


Above shows the blanking of the standard opes for the clutch/brake servos. We did not weld blank plates in place just encase we require them at a later stage if pedal box didn’t work out.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/05122010822.jpg


From reading the article below it seems Nigel Colfer is running similar pedal box so they must be a good buy.

http://www.the-mia.com/Pro-Drift-Top-Gun-Uses-OBP-Pedal-Box

Learn some more about obp pedal boxes.

http://www.obpltd.com/

..

Robbie Daly Ps13
09-12-10, 15:20
Good thinking lad...... Im putting 1 of these in my own yoke there a great job.....! Did you get the cylinders with it....! Pm me the cost please will ya....!

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
10-12-10, 11:14
Good thinking lad...... Im putting 1 of these in my own yoke there a great job.....! Did you get the cylinders with it....! Pm me the cost please will ya....!


Good to hear there a great job, yes I got cylinders/ reservoirs with them. Be careful when purchasing because there are many different types. I got the one that mounts on a flat surface but if you have long legs you might need the one that mounts on the sloped part of the foot well. Mark got one type and I got the other. I PM you price.

..

1jsoarer
10-12-10, 17:44
i notice the throttle peddle is much bigger than the brake!!:D:D....hardly going to be dogged!!....go on son:D

Robbie Daly Ps13
10-12-10, 18:18
Thanks 4 the pms lads....! I like the think outside the box approch on this build....! I reckon them pedel boxes are the job 4 left foor braking and also the little bit of toe heel.....! Keep up the good work lads top job...!

1jsoarer
11-12-10, 20:11
Thanks 4 the pms lads....! I like the think outside the box approch on this build....! I reckon them pedel boxes are the job 4 left foor braking and also the little bit of toe heel.....! Keep up the good work lads top job...!

Yeah sure robbie.......the only heel toe action you'l be doing will be in a homosexual line dance @ 5 in the mornin!!:p:p

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
14-12-10, 14:12
i notice the throttle peddle is much bigger than the brake!!:D:D....hardly going to be dogged!!....go on son:D

O the life will be dogged out of her :)


Thanks 4 the pms lads....! I like the think outside the box approch on this build....! I reckon them pedel boxes are the job 4 left foor braking and also the little bit of toe heel.....! Keep up the good work lads top job...!

Not a bother, thinking outside the box is the “way we roll”

.

foshea
15-12-10, 21:11
The driver position should work out well, good thinking out of ye

calicagesracing
26-01-11, 01:07
Any updates on this horse?:p

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
26-01-11, 19:18
Update 8.......26/10/11.

Happy New Year to all, things fell a bit behind the last month due to other commitments, also some of us had lung infections /swine flu etc ......but now we are back in the garage again working harder than ever before. Some of us are even smoking less fags due to the enormous work load ahead before the season starts.

I forgot to mention in the last update another important factor in building a racing car is the centre of gravity. The lower the centre of gravity is the better handling etc, so ideally we need all heavy components as low to the ground as possible. Unfortunately the only heavy component our budget allows us to lower is the driver (and that a heavy component)...god I am calling myself a car component now.

To lower the driver you obviously need to lower the seat/brackets. You can see below that we cleverly levelled up the floor to receive seat brackets at the bolt connection points, when the side mounting seat brackets are attached to floor the seat can be adjusted to be rubbing off the floor.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/floor2.jpg

You can see below a close up of the new mounts that are custom made. This is basic stuff but good for the newer lads to see what goes on.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/floor.jpg

The only way to get the seat any lower is to remove the floor..Ha Ha.

SRray
26-01-11, 21:20
good job,done similar meself,must drop me seat in and see how much headroom i have:D

calicagesracing
26-01-11, 21:39
Waheyy, I knew I'd done some bit of work to it lol:p

I'll get the grinder out tonight and remove the floor. The man needs to be lower!

mark
27-01-11, 00:38
lung infection/swine flu????
probably only a head cold horse.:p

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
13-02-11, 20:26
Update 9.......13/02/11.


After cutting away all the damaged bits on the back quarter below is what we were left with.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/12012011878.jpg


The chassis leg was fecked so we just cut it off too.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/BKQ1.jpg

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/BKQ6.jpg

Thanks to Shane O Sullivan (Elite Auto Parts) for suppling back panell of S15 at a competive price.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/02022011945.jpg

Above was taken inside boot looking down at driver rear chassie leg.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/23012011912.jpg

Power pack was used on occasion to hold panels in position while welding was completed.

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/22012011903.jpg

(Some info now for new guys as promised) You can see from above the second hand wing from donor fitted together millimetre perfect onto S15. When marking the cut lines on cars mark one at a time on both cars and use landmarks in the form of holes/spot-welds to reference your cut lines also double check back to window opening etc. When cutting use a 4.5 inch grinder with wafer thin blades.... cut on the line on one car and cut to the edge of the line on the waste side of the material on the other car. This should leave you with a gap of half the thickness of the blade when components are joined up. Remember measure twice cut once.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/BKQ3.jpg

New panell spot welder back into place


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/BkQ2.jpg


Boot lines perfect as seen above and most important light fits.

;)

Stevie e39 drift
13-02-11, 20:32
nice bit of work there .... good luck with this

Aidan Hogan
13-02-11, 21:15
getting there now lads :D

tweek
13-02-11, 21:28
Nice work fair play to Ye lads

One thing tho is that Smiler in the first pic????

nick180sx
13-02-11, 21:31
Nice work fair play to Ye lads

One thing tho is that Smiler in the first pic????

haha only seen him there when ya said it,that'd be smiler alright livin up to his name:D

colm
14-02-11, 22:30
fair play lads. your not afriad of cutting bits off in that shed anyways

calicagesracing
14-02-11, 23:28
fair play lads. your not afriad of cutting bits off in that shed anyways

That's the way we roll man:D:D

You should see what we're getting up to now;)

colm
14-02-11, 23:38
i may call up soon and have a look. its been a while since ive been over your way

calicagesracing
15-02-11, 00:25
Yea, no bother:cool:

I'm sure the lads will have a couple of bits that'll require your particular machining attention while you're here

colm
15-02-11, 21:21
il call up there some evening next week and bring notebook with me so ;)

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
17-02-11, 17:36
Update 10.......17/02/11.

Etch primer

At Calicageracing we etch prime as we go i.e. we etch prime every eve after sanding (when possible), yes I know this is not ideal but we are not full time car builders and garage is damp at times so rust builds up in a matter of days. We just don’t have the time or resources to start and finish the job of sanding down an entire car and etch prime using gun in one go because we all have six day a week day jobs. We use HB Body Fill 961 1K Etch Primer aerosol. Yes it’s expensive but it’s also a fast drying anticorrosive primer, with excellent anticorrosive and mechanical properties for metal surfaces of car bodies which are exposed after intense sanding. Before applying the primer we clean the surface which is going to be primed from rust, oils and dust and shake can thoroughly before use. We apply two coats, within a period of 5-10 minutes between coats,30 minutes after the application it can be sanded with P240 – P1000 sandpaper, dry or with water. It can then be painted over. (Basic stuff for some but I didnt know what etch primer was 2years ago).

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/16022011999.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/05022011947.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/05022011948.jpg

mark
17-02-11, 17:39
6 day weeks???:p
god your some man.

1jsoarer
17-02-11, 19:59
[QUOTE=Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan);242824]Update 10.......17/02/11.
a fast drying anticorrosive primer, with excellent anticorrosive and mechanical properties for metal surfaces of car bodies which are exposed after intense sanding. Before applying the primer we clean the surface which is going to be primed from rust, oils and dust and shake can thoroughly before use. We apply two coats, within a period of 5-10 minutes between coats,30 minutes after the application it can be sanded with P240 – P1000 sandpaper, dry or with water.



is that a direct quote from the back of the can:D:D...........ah no fair play man, serious bit of work goin on there!!

calicagesracing
17-02-11, 20:49
is that a direct quote from the back of the can:D:D...........ah no fair play man, serious bit of work goin on there!!

I just checked the can, it's not a direct quote










He must've googled it!!!!!:D:D

danmoorhead
17-02-11, 21:20
this is really shaping up well!! fair play ta nelly!!! savage savage job on the rear end!!

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
18-02-11, 08:46
6 day weeks???:p
god your some man.

I know...haha, and for some reason women keep calling me "god".


[QUOTE=Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan);242824]Update 10.......17/02/11.
a fast drying anticorrosive primer, with excellent anticorrosive and mechanical properties for metal surfaces of car bodies which are exposed after intense sanding. Before applying the primer we clean the surface which is going to be primed from rust, oils and dust and shake can thoroughly before use. We apply two coats, within a period of 5-10 minutes between coats,30 minutes after the application it can be sanded with P240 – P1000 sandpaper, dry or with water.


is that a direct quote from the back of the can:D:D...........ah no fair play man, serious bit of work goin on there!!

Ha Ha, ok I will come clean...it was on a leaflet ya fecker :D


I just checked the can, it's not a direct quote

He must've googled it!!!!!:D:D

No work done last with all the smoking and checking cans :D



this is really shaping up well!! fair play ta nelly!!! savage savage job on the rear end!!

He is a ferocious man, if only he was as good at putting up wallpaper.

.

Taffy
18-02-11, 19:34
looks savage don nelly doing a good job

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
27-02-11, 11:04
Update 11.......27/02/11.


As mentioned previously the S15 will be fitted with a paddle box, the paddle box will have to be mounted on solid brackets because from time to time excessive force may have to be applied on system as the standard brake servo which normally assists braking will be removed. The standard servo works by reducing atmospheric pressure on the master cylinder side of the servo diaphragm. The higher atmospheric pressure on the other side assists the brake actuator push rod to apply force to the piston in the master cylinder. The SR 20 manifold vacuum is used to provide the pressure differential.


Below you can see the brackets, we have welded nuts to the underside to receive bolts.


The other rails welded to the floor are for checker aluminium sheeting.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/09022011950.jpg


Below we lowered (for driver comfort) and strengthened standard floor bracing


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/61110005.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/61110014-1.jpg


Below...It’s difficult to make out but it’s a bracket to hold a control panel. This is required because the driver won’t be able to reach any part of the dash because of his new seat position.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/260220111035.jpg


The denso box will be roughly the size of panel.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/260220111036.jpg


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/260220111038.jpg




Cage still not finished but here is a sneak preview.


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z417/DonOGorman/260220111026.jpg


The gap between A pillar and the cage seams excessive in this picture but in fact its only 19mm. We were slagging Nelly saying it should be closer but keep in mind this 19mm is only in the centre of the front window, the cage makes contact with shell at the top and bottom of window ope. We are aiming for 28 points of contact between cage and shell where welding will occur.



.

chrisbrady325
27-02-11, 11:19
tidy job, keep up the good work :)

NIALL JZX
27-02-11, 11:38
savage work lads , cage will keep her fair solid.........

Team Kanjiuma (Donjuan)
28-02-11, 11:38
looks savage don nelly doing a good job

Not too bad, if your bored any evening don’t be afraid to call down, lots of work we could put you at.


tidy job, keep up the good work :)

Cheers lad.


savage work lads , cage will keep her fair solid.........

Solid as a rock....seems like cage is going on for ever but we only have few hours in evening and Sundays...auld part timers.



.

mark
28-10-12, 15:27
Updates needed horse, your year out is well and truly over!!:p

nick180sx
28-10-12, 20:24
Updates needed horse, your year out is well and truly over!!:p

X2!!!time ta get back at it don:)

S14a johno
29-10-12, 12:52
donno don was very busy wensday lol lot of walking :cool::cool::cool:

peteconneely
29-10-12, 17:40
fare play lads serious work being put in