Minty.Fresh 1JZ-GTE Altezza

[lukeb]

Serious work Pete defo should be brought to Ireland for days drifting

[Pete_the_Russian]

So stuck some oil in and adjusted the fuel pressure by eye. Bodged the maf on.



And turned the key.

[Pete_the_Russian]

Turned the fuel pressure up a little more

[Pete_the_Russian]

Then noticed the pressure gauge was slightly leaking. So wrapped some more ptfe tape around it and screwed it back in.

And one more time

[Pete_the_Russian]

Even the cluster works. Apart from inaccurate tacho readings



Bring on the clutch! Cant wait to take her for a spin!!

[Pete_the_Russian]

Im just gonna stick this stuff here. Pretty much all that I used to fire the engine up.

This diagram helps to understand the working principle of the ECU. Note however that the fuel pump relay is not in the diagram, but it still exists (Im on about the Circuit Opening Relay).



IGSW - Receives a signal once the key is turned in the barrel.

BATT - is constant power to the ECU

MREL - Once ECU gets the IGSW signal, it uses MREL to close the main relay. Which in turn provides +B to the ECU.

+B - Switched ECU power.

Igniter and Coils also need power. My car had a wire that supplied power specifically to coilpacks once the key is turned.



If you havent seen the triplecrowndrift.com write up on 1jz vvti wiring, I suggest you google it since it has some useful info, but I will put the pics he made below.

ECU Pinout. Specific to 1JZGTE VVTI from a JZX100. Dont use it for anything other than this engine. All JZ ECU's are slightly different.



To start the engine, you need only the following:

#G
IGSW - Switched Ingition power
BATT - Constant Batt Power
+B - Power supply through the main relay after its been switched by MREL

Then these ones to drive
STP - Stop signal, not sure exactly what it does. Maybe deceleration map.
SPD - Speed signal from gearbox or speedo cluster. All depends on you car. But the ecu needs this signal for the engine to work properly.

#H
MREL - Switches main relay after IGSW signal is obtained by the ECU.
FC - Used to switch the fuel pump relay. If i remember correctly, this pin is grounded through the ECU.

Once again, above to start, and these to drive.
W - Check Engine Light
FPU - Fuel Pressure up. Solenoid under the intake manifold
TE1 - Diagnostics terminal
These next two pins are incorrectly marked on the pinout. They should be shifted one space to the right.
ABV - Turbo blow off ( Re-circulation) Vacuum switch
PRG - Fuel vapour vacuum switch.

You dont need anything else other than mentioned above connected to the ECU.

Then you have your engine body plugs. In these you have:
Power to sensors
Power to coilpacks
Power to injectors
Starter signal







#2





#3 The pinout is slightly wrong on the connector below. Use continuity test to get correct pinouts





#4




#5





#6





Ill try update the above with more info. Cant remember much more off the top of my head at the moment.

Altezza specific ECU to JZ ECU wiring

[Sir Diffsalot]

Nice detailed build thread, goin to be savage when its done

[Pete_the_Russian]

Test fitted the JZX100 downpipe. Seems to look ok. Will probably switch to v-band instead of a normal flange for the exhaust side.



Rolled her out from the driveway. Oh man, cant wait to finish everything and have her driving.



Test fitted the bonnet catch. Will need to weld a tab to the intercooler for the third mounting hole



Should work ok



Pulled the engine back out for the clutch and gearbox to go on



Got the shifter extended.



Took some fine tuning with the inner linkage, but we got there in the end, haha.



Aaaaand the scary part! Relocating the ecu loom into the car. Thats gonna be so much fun!!

[Pete_the_Russian]

The bastard clutch finally turned up!



Pressed the old pilot bearing out using a slice of bread, and hammered the new one in. Began bolting on the pressure plate.



One of the bolts just wasnt threading in for some reason though. So I took it out, and tried a longer bolt. Threaded it in.... And just pulled it right out by hand again..... Fucking bollocks!!!

Just my luck, I got a used flywheel with a stripped thread!



Couldnt really check it properly before, since it only became apparent once i started tightening the pressure plate on. Spoke to Garage D, and they apologised and offered to fix it. So thats being sent off to them today.

That pissed me right off, and i felt like finishing up for the night. But regardless, decided to connect the boost controller solenoid while the engine is out from the car.

Pulled the pipe that goes from the compressor outlet to the wastegate actuator.



Dug out the instructions. Yes, I do read instructions!.



Used what I had lying around, and connected everything up. Mounted the solenoid at the back of the turbo intake.



With another pipe getting reference boost from the intake manifold, with a t-piece that will connect to the in-car boost gauge.



Intake shit is slowly arriving.



Cheap fluids for the 'flush'



And then I had nothing to do, I was bored, so I decided to sort out the wiring loom. relocate the ECU inside and tuck all wires inside bar the wiring for the lights, horn, washer bottle etc...

So out comes the dash



For reference, this is what was in the bay originally



Loom feeds though the bulkhead though the pass and drivers side. So need to unplug it from both junction boxes in the footwells



And pull all the shit out



This was the picture I was once I pulled everything out. Originally i only planned to move the ecu inside, leaving all the relay boxes in the pay as they were originally. But after seeing how clean this looked, I decided to go full retard.



Loom layed out on the floor



Stripped and radiator fan relay wiring chopped out



Then separate the loom a bit and were left with something like this.



Lights and ECU separated. Then proceeded to sort the drivers side and continue removing unused wires in the process. Airbag, old Altezza ecu wiring (trc etc..) So ended up with something like this. Arrows where it will go through the bulkhead.



Next, unbolted the dash mount. Unbolted the heater stuff and pulled everything back. Removed the aircon condenser hoses. Lifted the center bit of the heater up and fed the loom through there.



Guided the loom in places where the pedals wont come into contact with it, and stuck it down so it wouldnt move. Drivers side plugged back in and all done.



Pass side required a bit more tidying up



=

Fed the ecu loom to the airbag location. And tucked everything up and away. Taped the relay/fuse box up as a temp measure.



Just to see what it looks like with the dash



The ecu will live here



And this is what we ended up with in the engine bay. Still untidy since the wires arent organised and are just all over the place just now. But they wont be visible at all once the engine is in. Mega clean imho. Some will need to be extended slightly to reach the lights. But not a big issue at all.



And with the aircon pipes removed, it opened up this for the JZ engine loom to be fed though.



All the leftovers....



Relocate the battery next. Anyone recommend any decent fuses or solutions/tips for the relocation?

[Pete_the_Russian]

Been tidying up the wiring in the engine bay. Kinda hard in this cold weather, especially with a weak ass soldering iron. Finished extending the wiring on the pass side. Whole loom wrapped up is about 10mm in diameter. Will run along the chassis leg out of sight.



And a lifestyler pic of the 'show cars'



Pretty cold here last few days. Made a little enclosure haha



All wiring extended, just the the stuff inside the car left to do. And the remainder of the engine wiring (gearbox speed, reverse...etc)



Mint came round last night with some goodies from Japan. KTS pulleys, cause my alternator one was bent to shit.



Note to self: Dont do conversions outside during winter again. Its cold!



Made the airbag lid 'push-to-open'





Stuck the interior back in



Ended up leaving the relay box in the passenger footwell incase I ever need to get to it. Dont want to be pulling the dash apart to change a fuse :wack:



Then finished the intercooler mounting.





All bolted up and rigid as fuck. Should be ok



Then pulled the lights out, chopped them a little bit more to prevent any fretting



And sealed them up