Sr20 engine.....Stroker,sleeve or 87mm pistons with rods

[si_berry]

yes,but that will be off boost

Bit quicker thou!

[jamie180sx]

the sr20 block will bore to 87mm on stock cylinder liners no prob,but for improved safety your better off fitting heavy duty liners to add to the strenght of the block and will increase reliabilty with the block,there are many types of liners available but if your going past the 87mm bore you will require Darton Liners which can be bored out to 90mm,they will go alittle more but for reliability 90mm is perfect,

we have built a good few 90mm engines and have found them to be the only way to build a sr20 engine.as you will see a huge gain in torque and power over most other setups, and they love to rev, the stroker engines will devolop the power and will gain huge torque but a stroker engine does not like to rev high,,that is not to say that you cannot rev them but they just prefare not to.but torque will gain most from this..
the benefits of bringing it out to 90mm by keeping it a short stoke engine is they will rev alot faster and higher.so you will get the gains of a stroker kit with regards to power and torque but now they will rev faster and the power they produce is crazy.and because of the increase in displacment will help spool big turbos faster

for example my own drift car spools the same turbo as a GT35r with .86 housing now with full boost at about 4300 which is impressive for a large turbo,and i also run big cams,,them turbos are usually found on big 6 cylinder monsters with similar spool .

the ports on the sr20 are perfect to produce big power and do not need porting,up to the customer really,but there is some other ways with the head of producing the power which i would do,you dont not need huge head work with the 90mm engine as mentioned above..imo there the only way to build them,,im building a s15 for a chap on here with a 90mm stroked engine so that will be intresting to see the results but i would highly recommend the 90mm engine to anyone
and if your not sold on a 90mm engine
mazworks s15 drag car reving to 11k,and producing 1600 hp and doing the quater mile in around 7.60 and thats all with a std stroke crank with 90mm pistons and just a decent head and turbo setup,
Mazworx S15 making 7.60 pass - YouTube
Mazworx Drag S15 11,000 RPM video - YouTube

[mr.jailbait]

headwork will only improve top end performance

doesnt matter whether its high or low compression

[mr.jailbait]

the sr20 block will bore to 87mm on stock cylinder liners no prob,but for improved safety your better off fitting heavy duty liners to add to the strenght of the block and will increase reliabilty with the block,there are many types of liners available but if your going past the 87mm bore you will require Darton Liners which can be bored out to 90mm,they will go alittle more but for reliability 90mm is perfect,

we have built a good few 90mm engines and have found them to be the only way to build a sr20 engine.as you will see a huge gain in torque and power over most other setups, and they love to rev, the stroker engines will devolop the power and will gain huge torque but a stroker engine does not like to rev high,,that is not to say that you cannot rev them but they just prefare not to.but torque will gain most from this..
the benefits of bringing it out to 90mm by keeping it a short stoke engine is they will rev alot faster and higher.so you will get the gains of a stroker kit with regards to power and torque but now they will rev faster and the power they produce is crazy.and because of the increase in displacment will help spool big turbos faster

for example my own drift car spools the same turbo as a GT35r with .86 housing now with full boost at about 4300 which is impressive for a large turbo,and i also run big cams,,them turbos are usually found on big 6 cylinder monsters with similar spool .

the ports on the sr20 are perfect to produce big power and do not need porting,up to the customer really,but there is some other ways with the head of producing the power which i would do,you dont not need huge head work with the 90mm engine as mentioned above..imo there the only way to build them,,im building a s15 for a chap on here with a 90mm stroked engine so that will be intresting to see the results but i would highly recommend the 90mm engine to anyone
and if your not sold on a 90mm engine
mazworks s15 drag car reving to 11k,and producing 1600 hp and doing the quater mile in around 7.60 and thats all with a std stroke crank with 90mm pistons and just a decent head and turbo setup,
Mazworx S15 making 7.60 pass - YouTube
Mazworx Drag S15 11,000 RPM video - YouTube

you speak the truth

[paulcronin55]

It's important to note from that that mazworks use VVL heads most of the time... comparing that to a standard sr20 head is like apples and oranges.

[robbie@tdp.ie]

headwork will only improve top end performance

doesnt matter whether its high or low compression

Totally untrue.

The static and dynamic compression will have a huge affect on a turbo engine which is what we are talking about here. It will have an affect on the egt's which will cause the turbo turbine wheel to convert more thermal energy to kinetic rotation.

There are many other things that are very complex and work in conjunction with other systems that also are affected by compression ratio. Most important is the Ignition timing range that can be run.

Robbie

[mr.jailbait]

what i was trying to say,was not to do massive headwork and expect it to be more beneficial throughout the rpm range.even more so when its a driftcar


yes i know the compression is a very important factor,having owned both

but i dont think we get quality petrol here,for road anyway

[tweek]

Don't mean to sound like an asshole but as I said already the head isn't an issue.
@Jamie yeah the Mazworx engines are awesome but they are built for drag racing no daily driving or drifting there drag racing engines would only get the equivalent of one drift practice session and then stripped saying they might have been able to run 2000bhp but for how long.
Anymore opinions on the bottom end side of things?I am leaning towards 87m pistons with rods just for the convenience of it I don't know has anyone here built a road going sleeved engined car or stroked road going one.I will be using the car for track and road which I have done with all my cars so need reliability aswell
And again cheers for the input keep the opinions coming

[si_berry]

If it's a road car with a bit of track here and there... i'd forget about anything bigger needing sleeves (cheaper - won't have to buy them + machining cost). As far as I know you won't need sleeves with 87mm pistons, just get a bore.

Practically, I don't think it would make sense for you to go nuts unless your planning for big powers (big turbo, gt3071r, gt3076r etc + stronger gearbox + clutch to take the power = extra cost as well)

87mm pistons, rods, 1.1mm metal head gasket and new bearings I think would be spot on. All less than 1000 euro!

[tweek]

If it's a road car with a bit of track here and there... i'd forget about anything bigger needing sleeves (cheaper - won't have to buy them + machining cost). As far as I know you won't need sleeves with 87mm pistons, just get a bore.

Practically, I don't think it would make sense for you to go nuts unless your planning for big powers (big turbo, gt3071r, gt3076r etc + stronger gearbox + clutch to take the power = extra cost as well)

87mm pistons, rods, 1.1mm metal head gasket and new bearings I think would be spot on. All less than 1000 euro!

Yep that's why I said I was thinking of just 87mm pistons and forged rods but my main reason is because of the lack of info on people running a Stroker or sleeved block for long periods of time.The engine I built this year has over 17k kms on it car passed nct and the lot.
The clutch is not an issue (have a hks) gearbox is not a issue (have a rb25) turbo is not a issue turbo I have is about the same as a gt3076.
This engine will be a replacement for the other one at some stage next year.