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  1. #21
    Chris Martina
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    what is the exact regulation on these switches ,is it to cut ignition (obdviously) but how ? battery ,ignition ,fuel pump ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Robbie Daly Ps13 View Post
    He came up we chatted for a while nice fella to talk to all the same but he seemed very twitchy and i never trust a twitchy person....!
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  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by git View Post
    what is the exact regulation on these switches ,is it to cut ignition (obdviously) but how ? battery ,ignition ,fuel pump ?
    basicly cut the engine & power!

    I would cut the ignition wire if i know which one of the 5 to cut, hence why i went for the battery in my car! Not a expert on electrics...


  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by roco View Post
    i never put a kill switch on the positive circuit. always on the negative.
    It dosent make a difference which side ya switch if your simply using it as a battery isolator, i would mostly switch earth too for the reason you stated above. BUT a motorsport spec isolator switch has more functions,yes it kills battery power,but it also prevents engine run on and damage to electrical circuits when power is abruptly cut.All of this has to be switched positive to work.


  4. #24
    di Member thegosson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dunnedriftin View Post
    basicly cut the engine & power!

    I would cut the ignition wire if i know which one of the 5 to cut, hence why i went for the battery in my car! Not a expert on electrics...
    Take the plastic shroud from around the steering column off to expose the back of the ignition switch. With a multi meter check each wire (where it's soldered onto the ignition switch) with the key OUT of the ignition there should be 12v at one of the terminals… this is the constant live and has 12v sitting at it waiting at all times for you to turn the key and send the power on to all the other bits and bobs. This is the one to shut off the engine while using the motorsport 6 pole fia kill switch. If you have a turbo timer installed, brake into this wire before where the harness for the timer plugs in this will prevent the timer from holding the ignition on when your in the shit and need it off right NOW! You'll need to use the resistor provided too, to prevent the poles in the switch from arcing and over time destroying the switch. And then of coarse the the main batterie positive goes to the relevant side of the large poles on the switch. FIA spec to use the positive cable so that's what I did, makes sence seeing as you need to loop a live off the main electrical circuit side of the large poles to one of the small blade terminals on the switch. This side of the relay part of the switch is normally closed and this means when you shut off via the killswitch this part of the switch become an open circuit and it dumps residual power in the system through the resistor provided…
    Right so ted rant over. I hope this was of some sort of help to someone.

    Sig pic removed (size) - Admin

 

 

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