Code 44
IGT or IGF circuit of ignition system fault.
On my JZX81. Would anyone know what this is or where i would be able to find out?
Many thanks :)
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Code 44
IGT or IGF circuit of ignition system fault.
On my JZX81. Would anyone know what this is or where i would be able to find out?
Many thanks :)
its means ur car will explode lol :p
coil pack or spark plug fucked maybe
edit
timing might be out a tad either wit the colder weather
Yea gonna check for spark etc today, bit stumped to be honest. Car will start and run for approx 1 second then die. When i turn on the ignition the fuel pump isnt starting though but when i start it, it is. I bypassed the system and turned on the pump manually and no difference so its not that...
Checked all the plugs and they are all getting a spark. I'm a bit stumped :confused:
Maybe this might help. Sound is crap so cant hear the pump running, but it is but not before it starts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2GYotxuRmo
in toyota jz setups, the relay that runs the fuel pump works on 2 volts types, 12 on start up and 8 on running.
its a common thing to give trouble with these cars.
just replace the relay fred and she should run fine
reset your ecu by disconnecting the battery for half an hour too.
Thanks for the help, we were wondering yesterday would this have been an issue.
So we got another battery, put it in the boot, and wired the fuel pump to it directly, so it was on all the time, and it made no difference, so that would eliminate that wouldnt it? If not to you have any idea where the relays ( i assume you mean it has 2) are located. 1 seems to be in the passenger footwell...
Had the battery out for a week and no change!
did u check none of the hot or cold pipes for intercooler/turbo have come loose???happened in my silvia before an it would only run for a sec if even that
Check all the Vacumes, Turbo & intake...
its this relay that's giving the trouble with your car Fred.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredericks Balls
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_199....html?hl=28380
You reckon? Sorry to seem like a complete twonk im useless with this stuff, but if we already wired up the pump to run directly to power (a battery) and it was on constantly and the car was still the same would that not mean that the pump wiring/relays/etc is ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkII
If thats not the case, am I right in thinking there are two relays or just the one? (because you said it starts on 12v and runs on 8v)
I appreciate the help mate
its two functions of one relay, it uses 12v to prime and start and 8v to run. dude the same thing happened to my jzx90.
so i tested everything, pump was fine, but the signal wasn't there to activate the pump properly.
at the time it happened to me i was building the car for track, which worked out in my favour as i done the research and knew where the prob was so when i gave the car to mcnamara in cork to build my cage they fixed it cost feck all to fix as i found the prob and they had the know how to fix it,
this was 2 years ago next feb.
my pump runs all the time now and never had a days trouble with it since.
this is the other relay you were talking about on the passenger side
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_199...html?hl=85910A
Mate, i really appreciate the info. I also spoke to Nicad7 on Driftworks, he has just sold the red Irish reg'd JZX81. He had the same problem and he wired up the pump directly and with a switch and it runs all the time. He said it was starting and then just losing pressure, which sounds like your problem.
So one last thing, do you know how your pump is wired up? Is it as straight forward as wiring it straight to the battery with, say a switch on the dash even?
Thanks again for the help
Thats the one we found the other night, and it was clicking. But we never actually forund the relay on the drivers side, we were trying to find exactly what you posted to find where the parts are, so i will check that tomorrowQuote:
Originally Posted by MarkII
Thanks
i left it to mcnamara's to repair it,
i figured out what the problem was and that's about all i done,
as far as i know:
its been directed to a fuse and not a relay on the driver side foot well.
the day i collected the car i tested it b4 i left and it did actually fail so the lads increased a fuse size, its ran sweet ever since.
my friends mkIII 1jz supra done the same and sorted it with direct power.
i meant to say that when the car has had the ecu reset it won't idol right and would cut out,it won't want to stay running, you would have to keep the foot down to stop it from cutting out and drive it and start it a good few times to have her recognise the modifications that have been done over the years.
that's one reason why i never let the ecu reset on my car any more.
if it still cuts out even with the foot kept down then its 110% that relay giving the trouble.
hope this helps you sort out your problem.
Hey, with regards keeping it runnin, boot to floor on start up wont keep it running, doesnt want to run no matter what
So I raced home to try it, only to find out the relay isnt interchangable (I had hoped it was one of the silver cylindrical relays lol). I just rang Toyota and ordered one, will take max 1 week but I could have it on Wednesday. Feck it, if its changed and its no difference then at least thats the fuel system eliminated.
It has 4 prongs, the gold (power) one is all marked, like black or scorched. Maybe thats a sign it has failed?
Another suggestion was to just wire up the pump directly to a 12V supply, fuse it and put a switch on the dash, which is fine for comp use but i'd rather not for the road incase it was ever in an accident...
So all I can do is wait!
Mate, thanks again for all the help, i really do appreciate it and I will let you know how it goes
alright Fred,
hows it going?
have Toyota not got the part in for ya yet???
its very odd if they haven't got it in by now!!
Funny that, I was just comming on to update this now!
The part only arrived this afternoon. Was due before Christmas but the weather f**ked it up i think
Anyway put it in and it made no difference :( Still as before so im a bit stumped..
Knackered ECU has been mentioned to me on another site, apparently the capacitors shit themselves. I have no idea if or how i could check these, but maybe its time I got someone who knows to look at it....
EDIT:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/archiv...p/t-23160.html
Just been reading this, pretty interesting. Anyone know if there is someone in Ireland who could do this? (replace capacitors)
I have done a few 1jz engine conversions in nissans using standard ecu's..never had any problems.would have a look at at for ye if ye want.im up here in cookstown''
Thanks for the offer mate, my wife is from Monaghan so we are down there regularly so it wouldnt be too far.
I hadnt a chance yesterday but ill whip out the ECU tonight and see if i can check the capacitors just in case. Might see if anyone has a spare ecu even (long shot) to swap to try see if it works
Ok after spending a freezing few mins taking out the TRC :rolleyes: I found the ECU, and after opening it found this...
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a59...1/IMG_8648.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a59...1/IMG_8649.jpg
They are fucked arent they? The second pic is not showing whats there, the board has black stuff on it and there is a greeny goo between the legs. A third capacitor looks like it has fucked legs and the other two seem ok....
So to update this a bit.
Yesterday my friend brought around a 1JZ auto Soarer. We had hoped to swap ECU's which were identical apart from the connections :rolleyes: . So anyway not to waste the opportunity of having two mechanics at the house we set about checking stuff, and swapping parts from the soarer, like the ignitor box n other stuff. Everything was perfect and we could find nothing.
So it all points back to the ECU. The guys looked at it but couldnt say for sure, but one of them's father builds circuit boards so he said he would check it.
So I get a call an hour later to say his dad has looked at it and reckons that at least one of the capacitors does look iffy. He said he could test and maybe repair it and would be ready today.
So about a half hour ago he called back to say his dad had a closer look at it and it was basically fucked! All 5 capactiors were leaking and not holding charge, many more bits were knackered and one capacitor had leaked to the point of melting the current lines on the board. He managed to repair and check everything but we dont know if the main chips have been damaged. Ill pick up the ECU and plug it in and then we will know!!
Fingers crossed for tomorrow...