Suspension set up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Robbie Daly Ps13

Don't be talking shite........ A drift car is all about the setup....... As the saying gos powers nothing without control......... Which couldn't be a truer statement........ If your going in narrow minded like that ya'l never get anywhere.........

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Or you could look at it from another point of view, instead of the car being the main factor, maybe its the drivers ability, a good driver should still be good with a badly set up car!

There are many many more factors than just car and driver, the major factors IMO are
> Power
> The amount of grip you want
> Tyres(width/make etc etc)
> Weight of the car
> Spring rates
> Speed
> The adjustablity of the cars suspension

Althogh the things above are all to do with the car, you could spend days setting up a car, unless the driver can feel and notice the differance whats the point;)

Il jot down below a range of figers on cars iv set up and delt with and try to explane a bit more. With out giving away too much of course;)

Front camber range from 3degs to 7.5degs, on any competition car you dont want any less than 3degs camber. 2.5degs for road/drift setup but 3.5degs wont kill any one.
Castor, the more castor you hav ehte faster the steering corrects its self but be carfull, too much castor kills steering lock. Range 6degs to 9degs.
Toe is a bit of a personal oppinion, being RWD 0 is acceptable but for comfort and stability at speed with more than 3degs camber 10-20mins. This all goes out the window as soon as you put any steering lock on so prety pointless on a drift car.
Front camber and castor also have a big impact on how much front end grip/tyre contact you have mid drift.

Rear camber is the biggie yet the range is one of the smallest;) +.5degs to -1.5degs. The flatter the tyre tread on the ground the more traction youl have. This is where spring rate also comes into effect, if you have soft springs, when the car squats down under power, the camber will change drematicly. i.e So setting the camber to -.5degs static may become -1.5degs under load.
Toe, the more toe in you have the more traction youl gain, but be carfull, too little or too much can cause the car to handle like a pig. Range 0degs to 2degs IN.

My alignment figgers are top secret:p

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Originally Posted by Gar-4-age 86

Exactly dump the car on the ground till its completly undriveable and then just get used to it i.e. rag the tits of it:D

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ha ha love it:D:D:D sounds like a good setup for a cam all there good 4 is raggin the tits outta them lol

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Originally Posted by Polo

There are many many more factors than just car and driver, the major factors IMO are
> Power
> The amount of grip you want
> Tyres(width/make etc etc)
> Weight of the car
> Spring rates
> Speed
> The adjustablity of the cars suspension

Althogh the things above are all to do with the car, you could spend days setting up a car, unless the driver can feel and notice the differance whats the point;)

Il jot down below a range of figers on cars iv set up and delt with and try to explane a bit more. With out giving away too much of course;)

Front camber range from 3degs to 7.5degs, on any competition car you dont want any less than 3degs camber. 2.5degs for road/drift setup but 3.5degs wont kill any one.
Castor, the more castor you hav ehte faster the steering corrects its self but be carfull, too much castor kills steering lock. Range 6degs to 9degs.
Toe is a bit of a personal oppinion, being RWD 0 is acceptable but for comfort and stability at speed with more than 3degs camber 10-20mins. This all goes out the window as soon as you put any steering lock on so prety pointless on a drift car.
Front camber and castor also have a big impact on how much front end grip/tyre contact you have mid drift.

Rear camber is the biggie yet the range is one of the smallest;) +.5degs to -1.5degs. The flatter the tyre tread on the ground the more traction youl have. This is where spring rate also comes into effect, if you have soft springs, when the car squats down under power, the camber will change drematicly. i.e So setting the camber to -.5degs static may become -1.5degs under load.
Toe, the more toe in you have the more traction youl gain, but be carfull, too little or too much can cause the car to handle like a pig. Range 0degs to 2degs IN.

My alignment figgers are top secret:p

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good write up,good to see someone with expierence in setting these up,

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Originally Posted by Polo

Althogh the things above are all to do with the car, you could spend days setting up a car, unless the driver can feel and notice the differance whats the point;)

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yeh thats where im at, i never notice any differance in anything, i tend to just get used to it and it feels like the same as always after the first little sjid around a bend :D good info in that though. you have serious neg camber up front dont you, looks like a caracature picture or something:p

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Originally Posted by PeterT

you have serious neg camber up front dont you, looks like a caracature picture or something:p

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That'll be the hubs!;)

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Originally Posted by Jay

That'll be the hubs!;)

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didnt read the whole thign,as i saw lots of numbers i wouldnt understand:p:p

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Originally Posted by PeterT

yeh thats where im at, i never notice any differance in anything, i tend to just get used to it and it feels like the same as always after the first little sjid around a bend :D good info in that though. you have serious neg camber up front dont you, looks like a caracature picture or something:p

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TBH, fine tuning like that only really comes into effect once you are running the same tyre every time. If your using part worns, some 3 months old some 3 years old, with 40mm differance in width and any brand from linglong to toyo, your not going to be able to set the car up right, as every time you get in it itl act differantly. You can only set it to a base setting, go from there and hope that just tyre pressures well sort it on the day.

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Originally Posted by Jay

That'll be the hubs!;)

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The camber i run is not from the hubs them selfs, its to get the max performance from the hubs;)

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Originally Posted by Polo

TBH, fine tuning like that only really comes into effect once you are running the same tyre every time. If your using part worns, some 3 months old some 3 years old, with 40mm differance in width and any brand from linglong to toyo, your not going to be able to set the car up right, as every time you get in it itl act differantly. You can only set it to a base setting, go from there and hope that just tyre pressures well sort it on the day.

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yeh yeh i hear ya. ive never skidded a new set of tyres in my life:o! ha. im a cheap kunt:D

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Originally Posted by Robbie Daly Ps13

Don't be talking shite........ A drift car is all about the setup....... As the saying gos powers nothing without control......... Which couldn't be a truer statement........ If your going in narrow minded like that ya'l never get anywhere.........

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here lad my car is set up the way i want it and it feels perfect for the way i want to drive it it goes where i want to put it! im talking about people who spend a hell of a lot of money on every adjustable arm and link avalible and wouldnt drive a nail trough a soggy turnip!! whats the point im not saying im a fantastic drifter, but when ur at our level you do not need to set up the car the same way as pro drivers just get in and drive the fucking car sped ur money on seat time!!!! then when you can acccually feel every move the car is makeing then start thinking of setting it up the way you want it to feel not the way all the top lads do it because thats what they do doesnt mean it will work for you