VVT Solenoid removal

Can anyone advise me as to how I remove the VVT solenoid ? I've a terrible history of just going for something without actually knowing and making a complete balls of it....

I may as well just give you an example :embarrassed:.... Simple job, changing the oil in my first (only) automatic jammer, Soarer - Changed filter, fine, went to drain the sump, job done. Filled her up again and drove off happy as Larry, after a few minutes gearbox started feeling very strange, wasn't shifting properly at all. I stopped.

I then realised that I had a brain the size of a goldfish.... I drained my gearbox oil and put an extra ~5l of oil into my engine, so she was driving around with ~9l of engine oil and no gearbox oil ! :embarrassed::embarrassed:

Long story short I have no learned that no matter how simple the job, it's best to know exactly what to do before going for it. I've done a few searches and can't find any guide as such as to how to take the solenoid off. Maybe someone here can advise ?

It's not my picture but this is the part I need to get off :wink:

http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/s...iggins/vvt.jpg

No worries if noone can help,
Thanks.

is the solenoid broke & you want to replace it? or do u jus want to disconnect it??

You shouldnt need to remove it? But if you do, just unplug it, and get a 27mm spanner and loosen the solenoid.. Why would you want to do this? it goes into an oil gallery, so you need it there, even if you arent using vvt.

dermot hit the nail on the head,so if ur jus replacin it cause uv dodgey solenoid thats wat u do..if you jus wanna stop it from workin disconnect the wiring or even jus 1 out of the 2 that goes into solenoid n that shud do the job

Also I forgot to say, there is different solenoids between s14s and s14a's.. I dont know if it matters if you use the wrong one, just anytime I compare them, 1 is about 10mm longer and has a different end on it, so if you are replacing it try use the same one (Incase it matters)

Thanks for the replies lads, I sould have worded the question better so sorry about that haha...

I just wanted to disconnect it to see if it would stop the VTC rattle, it's safe to say that it did not work. In fact, it made it around 17billion times worse :huh: I presumed disconnecting it would essentially disconnect the VVT - Stopping the rattle ?

I'll have a search around the site but if anyone wants to give me a hand with understanding how the VVT rattle comes about I'd really appreciate it. From what I have read so far I know that getting a new sprocket in will sort the job out immediately. I've just read of so many people replacing it only to find it coming back again the following year - I also believe that I can essentially disconnect the VVT altogether, upgrade my camshafts to say HKS cams with vernier pulleys to keep the power and not ever have to worry about the rattle coming back ?

It's not even that bad, it's only there on start up or when out of gear. It completely disappears once I lift the clutch, it's just wrecking my head and want to get it fixed one way or another.

I could be totally off the mark with any of the above but if someone wants to try and explain different options that are available I'd REALLY appreciate it.

u could swap the vvt hub with a sprocket from the intake cam on a black top 180 engine.. you will need both the sprocket and bolt , because its a longer bolt that holds on the vvt hub to the cam..

u will loose the vvt , but its a cheap way out of it . u would get one from a blowin 180 engine of someone for notin like... ;)

Have fought with myself over this for a while now, as I have the same problem in my road car, as i'm running standard enough power, I dont really just wanna get rid of the torque it produces. I tried a secondhand one a few weeks ago, was delighted with it and the other day it just started knocking again :(

The only other thing is they can be got in America new for around $300 so if you are over there or know someone over there you could sneak one back into the country and that would prob fix it for rest of the engines life.

Also a company in England is developing a replacement but as yet I dont think they have managed it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DRIFTER

u could swap the vvt hub with a sprocket from the intake cam on a black top 180 engine.. you will need both the sprocket and bolt , because its a longer bolt that holds on the vvt hub to the cam..

u will loose the vvt , but its a cheap way out of it . u would get one from a blowin 180 engine of someone for notin like... ;)

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Thanks for the info, I might look into that one :wink:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hoopsbhoy

Have fought with myself over this for a while now, as I have the same problem in my road car, as i'm running standard enough power, I dont really just wanna get rid of the torque it produces. I tried a secondhand one a few weeks ago, was delighted with it and the other day it just started knocking again :(

The only other thing is they can be got in America new for around $300 so if you are over there or know someone over there you could sneak one back into the country and that would prob fix it for rest of the engines life.

Also a company in England is developing a replacement but as yet I dont think they have managed it.

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Thats what I'm afraid of, I really dont want to buy a second hand one for a 2 main reasons: 1) I heard it is a pig of a job to do and 2) For all I know, the second hand sprocket could be on it's last legs too :mad:

On another note, I do have an aunt living is San Diago... Wonder if she wants to send me a present haha :wink:

Thanks for the info lads, will look into both.

Has anyone here uprated the cams and entirely removed VVT ?

Is the clutch standard?? Sounds clutch related tbh, possibly the release bearing.